Tuesday, 16 December 2014

Nepal: More than just mountains






There's more to Nepal than mountains. Visiting Boudhanath stupa, Kathmandu's thriving Buddhist enclave, is a way to your inner Buddha. If you have one.There's more to Nepal than mountains. Visiting Boudhanath stupa, Kathmandu's thriving Buddhist enclave, is a way to your inner Buddha. If you have one.

All three Durban Squares in Kathmandu -- Patan (pictured), Kathmandu and Bhaktapur -- are home to impressive architecture. All three Durban Squares in Kathmandu -- Patan (pictured), Kathmandu and Bhaktapur -- are home to impressive architecture.

Evenings at the Hotel At The End of The Universe sometimes involve a Khukri rum with friendly hotel staff. And maybe a jam session.Evenings at the Hotel At The End of The Universe sometimes involve a Khukri rum with friendly hotel staff. And maybe a jam session.

From the Himalayan mountain village of Nagarkot, there are views of terraced fields and, when skies are clear, sunrise over Mount Everest.From the Himalayan mountain village of Nagarkot, there are views of terraced fields and, when skies are clear, sunrise over Mount Everest.

At New Orleans Cafe, a local musician starts the day with Nepali morning ragas on his flute, before transitioning to Dave Brubeck's "Take Five." At New Orleans Cafe, a local musician starts the day with Nepali morning ragas on his flute, before transitioning to Dave Brubeck's "Take Five."

Though it has a solid international food scene, Nepalese restaurants lean on local faves like momo dumplings and thukpa noodle soup.Though it has a solid international food scene, Nepalese restaurants lean on local faves like momo dumplings and thukpa noodle soup.

Developed a taste for Nepalese momo dumplings? You can take lessons to help you learn to make them at home.Developed a taste for Nepalese momo dumplings? You can take lessons to help you learn to make them at home.









  • Nepal isn't just a climbing destination but home to cool cafes, Buddhist traditions and unique architecture

  • Apart from turning the prayer wheels at Boudhanath stupa, there are less touristy temples nearby

  • Purple Haze is one of the best places to rock out in Kathmandu, fueled by local drinks like Khurki and Gorkha

  • The three UNESCO World Heritage-listed Durban Squares are home to centuries-old traditional architecture




(CNN) -- Mention Nepal and most people think snow-capped scenes, of 7,000-meter mountains and the climbers raring to conquer them.


Is there much to the country beyond its mighty Himalayan peaks?


Yes.


Thankfully, for those who don't consider it a vacation to hike for days, eat out of tins and do their business in a hole in the ground, it's possible to "do" Nepal without scaling anything.


Here are six ways to experience mountain country minus the mountain climbing.


In search of the inner Buddha


Who knew a hum could be so infectious?


The ubiquitous Buddhist mantra of "Om Mani Padme Hum" fills every monastery, shop and establishment in Nepal.


For embracing the spirituality that's woven into this little mountain nation, Boudhanath -- Kathmandu's thriving Buddhist enclave and a UNESCO World Heritage site -- is a good place to start.


The circular complex pulsates with the energy of chanting monks and Buddhist devotees.


It might be a peaceful place of worship, but it's a riot of color.


The ivory and yellow stupa in the center is wreathed in rainbow-hued prayer flags.


Maroon-clad monks walk clockwise around the stupa, turning prayer wheels with their right hand, and lighting lamps.


Anyone can join in, provided they remember to walk clockwise.


Scattered along the back alleys in radial, unnamed roads, other smaller, incense-filled monasteries such as the Jamchen Lhakhang and Shechen Monastery are pockets of calm.


In the large courtyard of Shechen, young monks in training sit with their books and smartphones, eager to take photos with visitors.


In a ring around the stupa, little shops are crammed with singing bowls and thangka religious paintings.


Rooftop restaurants like Cafe du Temple or Stupa View offers great view of the stupa.


An hour's bus ride away from Kathmandu, visitors can spend a weekend at the guesthouse adjacent to Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery to immerse themselves in Tibetan Buddhism, meditate in the Himalayas and find out what it's like to live with 200 monks.




Boudhanath stupa\'s prayer flags.

Boudhanath stupa's prayer flags.



The money from paying guests helps fund the monastery.


Neydo Tashi Choeling Monastery Guest House , Pharping, Kathmandu; +977 1 692 4606; double bed from $70 per night


Cafe du Temple, Boudhanath, Patan Durban Square (south of Krishna Mandir), Kathmandu; +977 1 214 3256


Stupa View, 10 meters from the Boudhanath stupa, Patan Durban Square, Kathmandu; +977 1 491 4962


Chill out at the end of the universe


"Hitchhikers Guide to the Galaxy" author Douglas Adams probably never dreamed his influence would be felt 2,200 meters up a Himalayan mountain in Nepal.


In Nagarkot -- a village 30 kilometers from Kathmandu that sits quietly above the clouds -- the Hotel at the End of the Universe sits atop its own mountain with 180-degree views of terraced farms and the 7,000-meter peaks of the Annapurna and Langtang ranges.


"The name is inspired by ['Hitchhikers' sequel] 'Restaurant at the End of the Universe'," says the splendidly monikered Oasis Bhaju, who's been running the place for the past 18 years.


"The hippies were here many years ago," says Bhaju. "Someone suggested this name to my father saying it would bring him good luck. I think people like it because it reminds them of Douglas Adams' book."


There's more than just the familiar name.


On a clear day, the hotel offers a majestic view of the sunrise over Mount Everest.


Low-roofed wooden rooms look out on hazy blue mountains poking up through the mist: the Ganesh Himal and Manasulu, to name a few.


In the evening, over a Khukri rum or two with the super friendly hotel staff, guests can sometimes jam with them on their didgeridoos and djembes.


Hotel at the End of the Universe , near Mahankal Temple, Nagarkot: +977 1 622 6500; standard room from $24 per night


Drink like a local


Nepalis like their booze, and they like it strong.


While the words "khukri" (the curved Nepalese dagger) and "gorkha" (named for the fierce soldiers) may conjure images of fierce soldiers brandishing razor-edge machetes, in Nepal they hold the promise of a good time.


Gorkha also gives its name to a bitter and heavy brand of Nepalese beer. Khukri is the local dark rum.


Neither are for the easily intoxicated.




Momos: Nepal\'s answer to dim sum.

Momos: Nepal's answer to dim sum.



Everest, a milder local brand of beer, goes down easier.


One of the best places to rock out with the locals is at Purple Haze in Kathmandu's tourist-filled Thamel district.


Most nights see a band belting out Hendrix and Led Zep covers to a dance floor rammed with locals letting their hair down.


Khukri-induced courage might be needed to bust out some smooth moves among the expat and local crowd at Tuesday salsa nights at Tamarind in southern Kathmandu's Lalitpur district.


Purple Haze, Paryatan Marg, Thamel, Kathmandu +977 984 118 1699


Tamarind, Pulchowk, Lalitpur; Kathmandu +977 1 552 2626


Make some momos


Any Nepali restaurant worth its spicy chutney is bathed in the scent of steamed momos, Nepal's version of dim sum, and hot thukpa noodle soup.


Visitors may weary of them while in Nepal, but are sure to miss them when they leave.


So how to cure those post-travel momo cravings?


Social Tours offers momo-making lessons at a produce market close to its Thamel kitchen.


The market is a good place to stock up on ingredients including flour for the dough, veggies or chicken, but it's also a great place to see everyday Nepali life.


"Classes usually last two to three hours, but it really depends on the clients' speed," says Anura Rai, local trips consultant at Social Tours.


Local women teach students how to make dough from scratch, get the proportions right, fold the dumplings into little bite-sized pockets and then whip up mean peanut and chili sauces to service with them.


"Folding is quite difficult, clients take time to learn," says Anura. "It's an art and we teach them how to do it."


Travelers choose what to pay depending on the experience they've had.


Social tours , two classes held in Thamel daily from Monday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m. and 2:30 p.m.; pay what you like; +977 1 441 2508


Be immersed in history and architecture


A paradise for history and architecture buffs, centuries-old traditional buildings dominate the durbar squares -- the plazas that form the ancient centers of Kathmandu.


Patan, Kathmandu and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares, all listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites, echo a slower time, with old men in traditional caps playing cards on wood and brick plinths.




Patan Durban Sqaure, one of the World Heritage Sites in Nepal.

Patan Durban Sqaure, one of the World Heritage Sites in Nepal.



The 17th-century Royal Palace stands on Patan Durban Square. Its three courtyards, Sundari Chowk, Mul Chowk and Mani Keshav Narayan Chowk, were once home to Malla Dynasty kings.


Scattered around it are temples.


Some, like the pagoda-style Golden Temple, the shikhara-style Krishna temple with 21 gold pinnacles and the Kumbheshwar Temple with its five-tier roof, date from the 12th century.


Often, a Nepali wedding takes place amid the crowds.


The Kumari -- a young girl given worshipped as an incarnation of the Hindu goddess, Taleju, for the duration of her childhood -- sometimes makes an appearance at the Durbar Square's Kumari Chowk, where she lives.


Enjoy cafe culture


It's been pulling in an eclectic range of global visitors since the days when it was established as a way station on the hippie trail, so it shouldn't be a surprise that Nepal has a burgeoning international food scene.


Wafer-thin wood fired pizzas and tangy flavors from the Middle East are as easy to come by as local dal bhat (rice and lentils) and momos.


Dhokaima in Lalitpur is a favorite with travelers for its leafy garden setting.


The house special is the Nepali lamb kebab thali -- meat cooked slowly until falling off the bone, served with rice and veggies.


The dish is best with a Coffee Puff, a concoction of rum and Kahlua.


At New Orleans Cafe in Jhamsikhel, jazz comes with an American-style breakfast.


A local musician starts the day with Nepali morning ragas on his flute, before seamlessly transitioning to Dave Brubeck's "Take Five."


Dhokaima, Patan Dhoka, Lalitpur Nepal; +977 1 55 22113


New Orleans Cafe, Jhamsikhel; +977 1 55 22708


Malavika Bhattacharya is a freelance travel journalist based in New Delhi. Find her work at malavikabhattacharya.com.



Top U.S. places to dine with celebs






LA is ground zero for stealing glances at the tips left by celebs like Megan Fox and Brian Austin Green (here at a Ferrari-sponsored gala). Fox and other stars are often spotted at RockSugar.LA is ground zero for stealing glances at the tips left by celebs like Megan Fox and Brian Austin Green (here at a Ferrari-sponsored gala). Fox and other stars are often spotted at RockSugar.

RockSugar, a Southeast Asian restaurant located in a mall that was once the back lot for 20th Century Fox, is popular with shop-weary celebrities.RockSugar, a Southeast Asian restaurant located in a mall that was once the back lot for 20th Century Fox, is popular with shop-weary celebrities.

In New York, financiers such as Lloyd Blankfein (standing), chairman and CEO of Goldman Sachs, high roll at places like Bobby Van's Steakhouse and 3 Guys Restaurant.In New York, financiers such as Lloyd Blankfein (standing), chairman and CEO of Goldman Sachs, high roll at places like Bobby Van's Steakhouse and 3 Guys Restaurant.

The Four Seasons Pool Room in New York: Not a bad room even when it's not stocked with stars.The Four Seasons Pool Room in New York: Not a bad room even when it's not stocked with stars.

President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama have been known to schmooze with local Democrats at Boundary Road restaurant in the nation's capital. President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama have been known to schmooze with local Democrats at Boundary Road restaurant in the nation's capital.

The 37th president's spirit lives on in the Richard Nixon Beef Wellington, a ritzy rendition of the Republican's favorite dish at Charlie Palmer Steak in Washington, D.C.The 37th president's spirit lives on in the Richard Nixon Beef Wellington, a ritzy rendition of the Republican's favorite dish at Charlie Palmer Steak in Washington, D.C.

Nashville, Tennessee, has beautiful people, like Kings of Leon singer Caleb Followill and Victoria's Secret model Lily Aldridge, here at an Infiniti-sponsored bash. You might also spot them at Tavern.Nashville, Tennessee, has beautiful people, like Kings of Leon singer Caleb Followill and Victoria's Secret model Lily Aldridge, here at an Infiniti-sponsored bash. You might also spot them at Tavern.

Power breakfasts happen at Calafia Cafe in Palo Alto, California, a Silicon Valley meeting spot where Steve Jobs and Google co-founders Larry Page and Sergey Brin have eaten.Power breakfasts happen at Calafia Cafe in Palo Alto, California, a Silicon Valley meeting spot where Steve Jobs and Google co-founders Larry Page and Sergey Brin have eaten.

Tesla Motors CEO Elon Musk (third from left) no longer parties at New York's Bunker Club (pictured). It's closed. But you might see him at Buck's of Woodside, a Silicon Valley hot spot.Tesla Motors CEO Elon Musk (third from left) no longer parties at New York's Bunker Club (pictured). It's closed. But you might see him at Buck's of Woodside, a Silicon Valley hot spot.

Yep, that's Owen Wilson and Vera Wang at The Dutch in Miami. Celebs like Oprah, Bill Clinton and Leonardo DiCaprio are sometimes seen at Prime 112. Yep, that's Owen Wilson and Vera Wang at The Dutch in Miami. Celebs like Oprah, Bill Clinton and Leonardo DiCaprio are sometimes seen at Prime 112.

As Portland, Oregon's, foodie rep has grown, so have pro hipster sightings. No telling what they made of the radish sides, but "Portlandia" stars Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein have been seen at Bluehour. As Portland, Oregon's, foodie rep has grown, so have pro hipster sightings. No telling what they made of the radish sides, but "Portlandia" stars Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein have been seen at Bluehour.

Jennifer Lawrence reportedly loves the brisket at Watershed, an Atlanta Southern comfort food station where the menu of luminary patrons is longer than its wine list. Some come for the fried chicken. Jennifer Lawrence reportedly loves the brisket at Watershed, an Atlanta Southern comfort food station where the menu of luminary patrons is longer than its wine list. Some come for the fried chicken.








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  • New York, Los A ngeles and Miami are obvious hot spots for celeb meal sightings

  • But Nashville, Atlanta and Silicon Valley are reliable spots, too

  • Not all "celebs" are actors and musicians. Politicians and entrepreneurs are exciting "gets" for many celeb seekers




(CNN) -- Whether they get a charge out of lunching beside an Oscar-winning actress or are simply using her choice of venue like a glorified Yelp review, people love supping with celebrities.


Restaurants love them too.


Problem is, publicizing "celebs eat here" information only ensures that the guests of honor never return.


So you have to do more these days than examine the walls of a dining establishment for autographed photos to find out what kind of personage it attracts.


That's what we've done, scouring gossip sheets, shaking down publicists and pushing the outer limits of local harassment laws in pursuit of the eateries favored by celebrities.


And that term isn't limited simply to entertainers.


The word "celebrity" is a sliding one that shifts with changes in geography, subculture and industry.


They'll be happy to welcome Chris Pratt at the TGI Fridays in Palo Alto, but in most of Silicon Valley it's Larry Ellison who really gets jalapenos popping.


Los Angeles




You might end up waiting with Victoria\'s Secret models for a table at Shutters On The Beach.

You might end up waiting with Victoria's Secret models for a table at Shutters On The Beach.



Let's just get the Entertainment Capital of the World out of the way, since it plays host to the most readily recognizable celebrities.


You can get lucky with a celebrity sighting at virtually any restaurant or taco stand in this city, but there are some reliably hip haunts.


On the West Side, Shutters on the Beach -- a luxury hotel referred to as "Hollywood's Beach House" -- is a popular option among actors and actresses for its oceanfront views and private entrance for hotel guests.


Featured fare: Specialty cocktails, pan-seared calamari


Sightings: Jennifer Aniston, Eva Longoria, Zac Efron, Heidi Klum, Ben Affleck, Megan Fox, Dave Chappelle, Brad Pitt


Further inland, RockSugar -- a Southeast Asian restaurant located in a Westfield mall that was once the back lot for 20th Century Fox -- is actually a popular respite for shop-weary celebrities.


Featured fare: Claypot beef, warm coconut donuts


Sightings: Megan Fox, Selena Gomez, Tyra Banks, Demi Moore, Gigi Hadid, Robert Wagner


Shutters on the Beach , 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica; +1 310 458 0030; expensive


RockSugar , 10250 Santa Monica Blvd.; + 310 552 9988; expensive


New York


The Big Apple is home to every type of celebrity, but none is more quintessentially Manhattan than The Mogul.


Famous for hosting deals over Dover sole, The Four Seasons is a time capsule of power lunching.


In fact, the restaurant is credited with inspiring the term, attracting the most titanic tycoons in finance, media and real estate.


Featured fare: Steak, crab cakes


Sightings: David Koch, IAC Chairman Barry Diller, resort developer Steve Wynn, New Jersey Governor Chris Christie, Henry Kissinger and, of course, Patrick Bateman


According to The Daily Beast, 3 Guys Restaurant on the Upper East Side, is the most powerful diner in New York, playing unassuming host to billions of dollars in private equity, hedge fund and broadcasting deals.


Featured fare: Omelets, milkshakes


Sightings: Former New York City Mayor Michael Bloomberg, Goldman Sachs CEO Lloyd Blankfein, JP Morgan Chase President Jamie Dimon, former New York Governor Elliot Spitzer


The Four Seasons , 99 E. 52 St.; +1 212 754 9494; expensive


3 Guys Restaurant, 960 Madison Ave.; +1 212 628 8108; moderate


Miami




Owen Wilson and designer Vera Wang have put up with photographers while eating at The Dutch in Miami.

Owen Wilson and designer Vera Wang have put up with photographers while eating at The Dutch in Miami.



The Magic City may exist for no other reason than to see and be seen, making it a free-for-all of fame and excess.


Billing itself as the first modern steakhouse in America, Prime 112 shucks dry-aged beef, lamb and burgers to a reliable roster of A-list clientele.


Featured fare: Chicken and waffles, fried Ho Hos


Sightings: Oprah Winfrey, Bill Clinton, Tom Brady and Giselle Bundschen, Leonardo DiCaprio, Alex Rodriguez , Dwayne Wade, NFL team owners Jeff Lurie and Jerry Jones


Chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten's newly opened Matador Room, in the Edition hotel, has already begun attracting a throng of VIPs for modern takes on Latin food in its throwback oval dining room.


Featured fare: "Bespoke" cocktails, mariscos


Sightings: Vera Wang, Linda Evangelista, David Schwimmer, Starwood CEO Barry Sternlicht, W magazine editor Stefano Tonchi, hotelier Andre Balazs


Prime 112 , 112 Ocean Dr., South Beach; +1 305 532 8112; expensive


Matador Room , 2901 Collins Ave., Miami Beach; +1 786 257 4600; expensive


Silicon Valley, California


Once an incubator of counter culture poets and firebrands, the Bay Area has pioneered a new type of star over the last 20 years: the tech titan.


Opened in 2009 by Google's first executive chef, Calafia Cafe, in Palo Alto, has become a de facto Yalta for dot-com billionaires and tech sector hyper-capitalists in need of neutral negotiating ground.


Featured fare: Artisanal pizza, whole-garden salads


Sightings: Apple co-founder Steve Jobs, Google co-founders Larry Page and Sergey Brin


According to the San Francisco Chronicle, Buck's of Woodside has become the Valley's "first-date spot" for the formation of technology companies, from the early ideation of Hotmail to equity stakes in Tesla.


Featured fare: Eggs benedict, Chinese chicken salad


Sightings: Elon Musk, venture capitalists Marc Andreessen, Bill Draper and John Doerr and Yahoo! co-founder Jerry Yang


Calafia Cafe , 855 El Camino Real, Suite 130, Palo Alto, California; +1 650 322 9200; moderate


Buck's of Woodside , 3062 Woodside Road, Woodside, California; +1 650 851 8010; moderate


Nashville, Tennessee




King\'s of Leon Caleb Followill and wife and model Lily Aldridge make the rounds in Nashville.

King's of Leon Caleb Followill and wife and model Lily Aldridge make the rounds in Nashville.



It's not hard to guess the Music City's celebrity of choice; the town is filthy with strummers and hummers.


Located across from the Country Music Hall of Fame, the Hilton Nashville Downtown is just blocks from the honky tonks of Broadway.


Following a $32 million renovation, it houses four dining venues, headlined by The Palm Steakhouse for its star appeal.


Featured fare: Steak, martinis


Sightings: Kenny Loggins, Aretha Franklin, Little Richard, Roberta Flack, Harry Connick Jr., John Legend, Lady Antebellum


Farther down Broadway, Tavern is quickly gaining renown for not only its creative gastropub menu and growlers of local craft beer, but for its celebrity following.


Featured fare: Tacos, clever cocktails


Sightings: Jack White, Brian Mansfield, Kings of Leon's Caleb Followill


The Palm Nashville , Fourth Avenue South; +1 615 620 1000; expensive


Tavern , 1904 Broadway; 615-320-8580; moderate


Atlanta


The Hollywood of the South is fast becoming as likely a place to spot a movie star as its nick-namesake.


Jennifer Lawrence is reported to love the brisket at Watershed, a Southern comfort food laboratory where the menu of luminary patrons is longer than its wine list.


Featured fare: Crispy pork belly, jambalaya


Sightings: Woody Harrelson, Reese Witherspoon, Jake Gyllenhaal, Jim Carrey, Jeff Daniels, Stevie Wonder, Colin Firth, Liam Hemsworth, Jane Fonda, Robert Duvall


Widely regarded a top-10 steakhouse in the United States, Chops Lobster Bar is also one of America's top celebrity zoos, where diners can watch stars graze on 100 percent A5 authentic Wagyu kobe beef.


Or salad.


Featured fare: Dry-aged porterhouse, lump crab cake


Sightings: Denzel Washington, Russell Crowe, Justin Bieber, Billy Bob Thornton, Zach Galafianakis, Vin Diesel, Larry David


Watershed , 1820 Peachtree Road NW; +1 404 809 3561; expensive


Chops Lobster Bar , 70 West Paces Ferry Road; +1 404 262 2675; expensive


Washington, D.C.




Charlie Palmer Steak is a reputed favorite among lobbyists and lawmakers in Washington, D.C.

Charlie Palmer Steak is a reputed favorite among lobbyists and lawmakers in Washington, D.C.



They're the men and women Americans love to hate -- though, according to recent polls, it's mostly hate -- they're the stars of democracy!


Located within groveling distance of the Capitol, Charlie Palmer Steak is a reputed favorite among lobbyists and lawmakers seeking discretion (and only slightly more gutless cocktail shrimp).


Featured fare: Tuna tartare, hanger steak


Sightings: Bill Clinton, Mitch McConnell, Harry Reid, Al Franken, James Carville and Mary Matalin


West End's Blue Duck Tavern wants you to know it's American, which is why it invokes the adjective twice in the first 50 words of its About page.


That makes it a safe choice for publicity-conscious politicos to gorge on freedom fries.


Featured fare: Wood oven-roasted bone marrow, lemon pepper tuna


Sightings: Barack and Michelle Obama, Condoleezza Rice, Brian Williams, Debbie Wasserman-Schultz, Chelsea Clinton


Charlie Palmer Steak, 101 Constitution Ave. NW; +1 202 547 8100; moderate-expensive


Blue Duck Tavern, 1201 24th St. NW; +1 202 419 6755; expensive


Portland, Oregon


Stumptown has recently become a refuge for celebrities of all stripes drawn by its verdant geography, progressive ethos and beards.


Jerry Seinfeld was recently spotted eating at the trendy food-cart pod on Southeast 28th Avenue near Ankeny Street.


In town for the premier of her new film "Wild," Reese Witherspoon and Laura Dern made the scene at Tasty n Alder in Southwest Portland.


Despite chef shakeups in recent years, Bluehour has remained a fashionable destination, esteemed as much for its modish scene as its Mediterranean menu.


Featured fare: Halibut, signature cocktails


Sightings: Gus Van Sant, Oregon Governor John Kitzhaber, "Portlandia" stars Fred Armisen and Carrie Brownstein, Portland Trail Blazers' Robin Lopez and Wesley Matthews


Bluehour , 250 NW 13th Ave.; 503-226-3394; expensive


Jordan Burchette is freelance writer and editor based in Los Angeles.



Russia hung up on homosexuality





  • CNN's Matthew Chance: It's not only Russia where sexual minorities suffer discrimination

  • Some U.S. states still refuse to recognize same-sex marriage

  • A HRW report says Russia has "legalized discrimination against LGBT people"

  • The report goes on to document various horrific instances of violence and abuse




Moscow, Russia (CNN) -- Let's start with a touch of perspective. It's not only Russia where sexual minorities suffer discrimination. In the United States, that beacon of tolerance, there's still a huge amount of bigotry. Some U.S. states still refuse to recognize same-sex marriage. And hate crimes and violence towards LGBT individuals remain a significant problem.


Russia does not have a monopoly on intolerance. However, there is a key difference. In the U.S., officials go to great lengths to espouse tolerant views and behavior. Laws have been passed, and are enforced, protecting LGBT rights. Hate crimes are prosecuted. In Russia, that is rarely the case.


That's not just my view, it's the opinion of Human Rights' Watch, a New York-based rights group.


In their latest report on Russia, titled License to Harm, HRW finds the Russian authorities have not only "failed in their obligation to prevent and prosecute homophobic violence," but have also "effectively legalized discrimination against LGBT people and cast them as second class citizens."


The controversial measure the report singles out is, of course, Russia's "anti-gay propaganda" legislation.





Loophole lets gay couple wed in Russia




Russian vigilantes targeting gay men

The law bans "propaganda of non-traditional sexual relations among minors" and was, according to HRW, one of several anti-LGBT measures adopted or proposed in 2013.


In their report, HRW says the law doesn't actually protect anyone, but does give homophobes a reason to believe LGBT lives matter less to the Russian government.


The report goes on to document various horrific instances of violence and abuse against Russia's LGBT community, including by radical nationalist groups luring gay men on the pretext of a fake date. It makes grim reading.


Read: Right group documents abuses


During the Soviet Union, homosexuality was a crime punishable by prison and hard labor. Homosexuals were regarded as pedophiles or fascists, outside normal society.


Laws explicitly banning homosexuality were lifted in 1993, after the Soviet collapse -- though there was no amnesty for those jailed for sodomy -- but the attitude appears to have stuck.


Even today, LGBT activists in Russia -- like the couple I met in St. Petersburg recently -- are regarded as outsiders, sometimes agents of the liberal West, to be distrusted.


The Saint Petersburg lawmaker behind the controversial "propaganda" law, Vitaly Milonov, underlined this when he told me that any Russians who want a same-sex marriage should move to the West "where they belong."


That's a potent connection in these times of growing tensions between Russia and the West.


Linking Russia's LGBT community with the enemy taps into old fears of corrupt outsiders polluting Russian purity, and bodes extremely badly for hopes that discrimination in Russia will be tackled.



Australian PM: System fell short





  • Tony Abbott says there are lessons to be learned from the deadly siege

  • The standoff ended in the death of the gunman and two hostages

  • People pay tribute to the victims at a makeshift memorial in Sydney




(CNN) -- The gunman behind the deadly siege of a cafe in Sydney this week was not on a security watch list, and Australia's Prime Minister wants to know why.


Tony Abbott told AM, a radio program of the Australian Broadcasting Corporation, that the system fell short.


"There's no doubt about that, and this is why we've got to constantly learn the lessons of everything that happens. We've got to be constantly asking ourselves: Is this the best we can do?


"And frankly, we've got to always be better at this because if we aren't good at this, our people suffer. And the tragedy of this atrocity is that two delightful Australians, two very decent people, are dead. Others are injured. Others are traumatized because of a madman who was roaming our streets," the Prime Minister said Wednesday.









An injured hostage is carried to an ambulance from a cafe in Sydney on Tuesday, December 16. Gunfire erupted early Tuesday as police stormed the Lindt Chocolate Cafe, where a gunman had been holding hostages since Monday morning.An injured hostage is carried to an ambulance from a cafe in Sydney on Tuesday, December 16. Gunfire erupted early Tuesday as police stormed the Lindt Chocolate Cafe, where a gunman had been holding hostages since Monday morning.



Hostages run toward police officers on December 16.Hostages run toward police officers on December 16.



A police officer and a paramedic escort a hostage away from the scene of the siege on December 16.A police officer and a paramedic escort a hostage away from the scene of the siege on December 16.



An injured hostage is wheeled to an ambulance after shots were fired during the raid on the cafe.An injured hostage is wheeled to an ambulance after shots were fired during the raid on the cafe.



Two armed police officers stand ready to enter the cafe on December 16.Two armed police officers stand ready to enter the cafe on December 16.



A hostage stands by the front entrance of the cafe as she turns off the lights on Monday, December 15.A hostage stands by the front entrance of the cafe as she turns off the lights on Monday, December 15.



A hostage runs toward police on December 15. She was one of five people seen fleeing the cafe.A hostage runs toward police on December 15. She was one of five people seen fleeing the cafe.



Police gather near the cafe on December 15.Police gather near the cafe on December 15.



Hostages behind the cafe's window hold up a black flag with Arabic script on December 15.Hostages behind the cafe's window hold up a black flag with Arabic script on December 15.



A police officer listens to a radio on December 15.A police officer listens to a radio on December 15.



Two hostages make it to safety outside the cafe on December 15.Two hostages make it to safety outside the cafe on December 15.



A police sniper walks to his vehicle on December 15.A police sniper walks to his vehicle on December 15.



A journalist reports on the situation in Sydney.A journalist reports on the situation in Sydney.



Armed police are seen outside the cafe on December 15.Armed police are seen outside the cafe on December 15.



People rush past armed police near the cafe on December 15.People rush past armed police near the cafe on December 15.



Police close a street near the scene on December 15.Police close a street near the scene on December 15.



 Police officers talk at the scene on December 15. Police officers talk at the scene on December 15.



Armed police patrol near the Sydney Opera House. Major landmarks in Sydney were evacuated as police responded to the hostage situation.Armed police patrol near the Sydney Opera House. Major landmarks in Sydney were evacuated as police responded to the hostage situation.




Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney

Hostage situation in Sydney






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Photos: Hostage situation in SydneyPhotos: Hostage situation in Sydney






Australian Ambassador reacts to the Sydney siege




Sydney victim 'shielded pregnant friend'




Cameraman describes Sydney siege

Authorities have identified the gunman as Man Haron Monis, an Iranian-born refugee who was granted political asylum in Australia.


He seized control of the Lindt Chocolate Cafe in the heart of Sydney's central business district and held it for some 16 hours.


The siege ended when police stormed the cafe early Tuesday. The gunman was killed, but so were two hostages -- Katrina Dawson, a 38-year-old barrister and mother of three, and Tori Johnson, the manager of the cafe.


Victims of Sydney siege


Monis was on bail for violence criminal offenses at the time of the attack. He had a long history of mental illness and violence, the Prime Minister said.


"This was the act of someone who was way beyond any mainstream, any mainstream, and has been rightly, absolutely repudiated by all the communities of Australia," Abbott told the AM program. "We want to know why he wasn't being monitored, given his history of violence, his history of mental instability, and his history of infatuation with extremism."


As authorities work to find the answer to that, and other unanswered questions, a makeshift memorial has sprung up in Sydney as people come to pay tribute to the victims. Thousands of people have left flowers, cards and signed condolence books.


"We're a country that is not innocent of these issues," Kim Beazley, Australian ambassador to the United States, told CNN's "The Lead With Jake Tapper," on Wednesday.


"We are well-prepared in many ways, but we weren't well-prepared enough for this particular man, in this particular place, and that will require investigation," he said.


CNN's Anna Coren and Jethro Mullen also contributed to this report.